The rsync enthusiasts have convinced me to try that way. Let's see if it can correctly handle the bullshit that lies beneath.
Step one: update to latest rsync.
Step two: read man page.
Watch this space for reports of how well it worked in a few days.
None of the rsync changelogs call out the ability to recognize hardlinked directories. (My source is a Time Machine backup drive.)
Now, maybe it deals with that unusual feature correctly. Maybe the hardlink detection is generic enough that it just works.